I put the magnet back in the pan so I wouldn't forget it when it's time to re-install the pan. I last changed the fluid about 30 thousand miles ago. Also, using a micrometer, you need to check the converter. Using a small garden sprayer, I sprayed some mineral spirits paint thinner into the pan and brushed it with a parts cleaning brush. Remove transmission fill plug from side of transmission. Estimating torque on something important like a band clutch sounds risky, but there are ways to be accurate.
There was a black rubber gasket around the mating surface. The rear band is located at the back of the transmission pan, on the right-hand passenger side of the transmission. I also spilled some fluid on the floor, and caught some fluid in a smaller dishpan when I removed the valve body the reason I dropped the pan in the first place. Once the seal is installed, it is stationary. Have you dropped the pan at all? Be careful, these screws are threaded into aluminum, so it's easy to strip out the threads. Then transmission fluid started dripping all over the place. Install and tighten transmission fill plug to specification.
Then, following the shop manual, I backed off the screw two full turns, and I tightened the locking nut a lot more than 72 inch-pounds, I'll say. We put the transmission back up started it and leaking again. Schedule B - Severe service, which includes vehicles that often tow heavy trailers or plow snow, and several other factors like frequent short trips, extended engine idling, driving at high speeds in hot weather, driving off-road, driving in dusty conditions, etc. I've never had a problem. To catch the fluid, I placed a large plastic tub beneath the transmission pan. I don't have enough expertise in automatic transmissions to predict exactly what would happen.
Read at the end of this article. You may have damaged it when installing the torque converter. I cleaned the mating surfaces of the oil pan and the transmission case with brake cleaner. Apparently they sell the stuff to companies that refine the fluid into usable products. I tightened the bolts gradually, snugging-up all the bolts in the cross-pattern, then doing them again, and again, before the final tightening. Pour in the dye and run the engine for a minute or two.
If so, make sure it's not the culprit for this leak. That makes no sense other than if you took a nick from the front seal when reinstalling. Pull the inspection plate, and using a good light source, check to see if you can locate the leak with the engine running. Normally I would start by adding 5 quarts and then running the engine for a few minutes, while shifting the transmission through all the gears. At about 4 complete turns the screw began to get tight. But the transmission shifted fine before I did this maintenance, so I guess that if I had to estimate the torque, I'd prefer to estimate too low, so the band would be just a bit looser than when perfectly adjusted.
Estimating 6 pounds of force becomes the next challenge. See if there is a drain plug on it. Actually, I found it easier to lay under the front of the truck and tighten the bolts, because I could use the wrench on the bolts that were in tight quarters, and it was easy to reach all the other bolts with a ratchet and extension. On all transmissions, install and tighten transmission drain plug to specification. Fluid Change Interval: The Dodge Dakota factory service manual the books used by dealer mechanics has two service schedules: Schedule A - Normal use.
Now the truck has 183,000 miles and the transmission still works great. I don't have one that goes that low. Red Rain: I removed all but one of the bolts on the left driver's side of the pan, but I left two bolts in the right side to keep the pan from falling. I'm guessing that getting the torque exact isn't a big huge deal, because when that screw got tight, it got tight fast, and it turned about one-twelfth of a turn from snug to my estimate of 72 inch-pounds. I needed the wrench at the front where the exhaust pipe blocks access. You guys are both right, pulling the trans is a pain. I found this little ball stuck to the magnet in the transmission pan.
Some of the fluid is hiding in the hundreds of internal passageways, but the bulk of the trapped fluid is inside the torque converter. This picture is taken from the front, from just below the engine. Thats ok you are giving me more help then anybody else right now. I replaced everything except the front pump which was rebuilt and the torque converter. The first time it started leaking it wasnt a bad leak, when we tried to fix it the first time it was a worse then before, and when we tried to fix it again now it gushes out. Chrysler recommends changing the automatic transmission fluid and filter every 37,500 miles.
I wish the engine held up as well. More on this at the end of the article. I'm doubtful, since you say the leak is pretty significant now. A wire brush also works, but takes much longer. I drained the dirty solvent into my oil drain basin. Three quarts of oil would be a close approximation.