For the diffs, will Amsoil severe gear oil 75w90 synthetic be good for front and rear? Did you actually read what I typed? You'd think this would be an easy thing to find the correct answer to but it seems as though I've been searching a long time now and can't find the answer I need. Not sure if it was just the stock oil that was poor quality or something else could be wrong, contaminating the fluid, I see no visible leaks. My Z71 now has just over 80k miles on it, with all original fluids except oil. Don't think they come with the auto 4x4. I have never changed the fluid in a rear differential before but it seems pretty straight forward.
If you don't have someone local to cut you a deal, let me know. My biggest worry is am I going to have to rebuild the diff every? Pull both left and right tires remove retaining bolts to axles on both sides have grease pans ready to catch grease depending if it has read cover or you have… put a drain pan under the diff, unbolt the diff cover and pry it loose, oil will come out. I installed a nitrous cam in it and ran a 671 weiand supercharger and i wasn't easy on it either. Get some brake cleaner, hose out the diff with it before you put the cover on and refill, make sure to clean off the magnet at the bottom of the diff. Trucks use a Locking rear differential which completely locks up when one wheel spins more than 100rpm more than the other and will remain locked until about 25 mph.
I'm glad I did as the front didn't look clean but the rear did. I love the truck, a blast to drive in the rain. Also, you do not have to take the rear axle cover off , as ther is a drain bolt that is flush on the bottom of the axle The answer below is also correct I don't know the capacity, but I know how to tell if it is full. You don't need the additive. Do you think it had something to do since the truck was not rasied or do you think I should do nothing and the 1. Nothing, that's why I asked.
I changed the front to the Royal Purple and the rear to Lucas Synthetic since all the Royal Purple was gone. A limited slip won't do that but it not good for traction in off-road situations due to its limited slip design. One thing about the units from Jasper, when you recieve it, you may be shocked to find you only recieved the actual differential. Jul 03, 2009 You did not give your engine size or other information, but here is a list from the handbook. So I got a pump and more fluid but when I took off the fill plug and fluid started slowly pouring out. What fluid do I use? It is helpful to leave one in the top so the cover does not come off until the very end, after the lube has drained.
It's in the owner's manual but I don't remember exactly what it was off the top of my head. This time it was not raised when I tried to re-fill it. It may have 12 to 14 bolts that hold it on, Remove them and pry the plate off and the gear oil will come out. The diff's from a C3, Yukon Denali or an Escalade will fit, but they would have came with 3. I only filled it with 1.
Remember, on a rear end without a drain plug allways remove the fill plug first. Seeing I was the boss there, I trated my crappy F-Explorer very well with fluids. Hope this helps, and good luck. Fluid level should be checked periodically. I can usually ship it straight to you for around the same, or a little cheaper than if you pay retail for it local. Everything breaks, whether it was lack of maintenance, an individual defect, or too much horsepower.
Auto stores sell several types of these, as do many places online. I hear over on ls1tech, a lot of people like to think differently I personally don't know, but that is just what I hear. You drain the oil by removing the 10 bolt cover. I had plans to add some bolt on's for more horse power, but it seems that the diff can't even hald the 345 it has. . Edit: A few tips: Remove the fill plug first Remove all the diff cover bolts but the top 3 or so, leave those in but loosen them.
Rear axle additives are designed for use in limited slip differentials which are normally installed in cars. Originally Posted By hooligan223: Nothing, that's why I asked. Drain and replace differential fluid immediately if the axle is submerged in water. Normally you add gear lube… There are four ways to find a ratio. When most people rebuild the diff, if the parts are in what appears to be in good shape, they will reuse them. To do this, I tightened the bolts lightly by hand, and then used my socket wrench to tighten them using a star pattern, similar to mounting a tire. Besides that, all the 8.
I'm at 40k in not quite 2 years Just a good opportunity to help out someone else? One of the most common reasons for failure in the 8. I don't think it's limited slip but I'll be sure that whatever I use meets the recommended specs. Please be specific with answers as it seems everywhere I look everyone is very vague. As Jason and Darien already stated, Severe Gear 75W90 is correct for both diffs. That's all there is to it. It sends vacuum to the actuator. First drop drive shaft use blaster spray around nut inside yoke then remove yoke this will release the pinion gear in step three.