I've called oreilly and they have them in stock so I can pick one up in the morning. Also, wouldn't I be getting the light at higher rpm's because a bad oil pump wouldn't be able to keep up? Inspect your sending unit and wiring for leakge or bad wire. Its located to the right of the oil filter housing,on a 2. Given all the trouble that can be involved with performing maintenance on your car or truck, let www. I've been driving it for the past few weeks, and the oil light would flicker or come on intermittent, again only at idle. I also noticed that when I would start the car the oil pressure light would stay on for a little longer than normal, and I'm talking like two seconds longer than normal so not by much.
Now for my current problem. Funny you should mention that. Now for my current problem. The blinds can close completely to stop airflow, or allow partial flow by opening, in 6° increments, all the way to fully open. Do you have any way that you can measure the idle rpm when the light comes onHaynes showed oil pressure should be 45psi at 800 rpm. I ask because since this has been going on, I've paid more attention to my gauges.
I also will be putting put a new oil pan on it as my plug was stripped out at my last oil change. So I got the two parts today and got everything hooked up. Yesterday morning after driving home, I left it running and tested the battery with a meter and it showed 13. If the engine is stumbling, fix that first could be the throttle body or idle air control valve needs cleaning. Also, what would a dealer do different compared to what I've done so far? I'm not even certain of what I need, so maybe I can get some help here.
I'll drive it to work tomorrow and see what happens. I picked the car up from the dealer and I've had no problems with the oil pressure light flashing. When I picked the car up from the shop the light was flickering at idle and I sat there in my driveway fiddling with the throttle. These electric pumps do go bad and make a lot of noise when they do. Now the oil light stays on after the car is warmed up. This problem seemed to start soon after that recall work, but I didn't even think about it. Fuel then passes through a mechanically actuated high-pressure fuel pump mounted on top of the cylinder head and driven by a four-sided camshaft lobe.
I got the same readings as yesterday; 80psi on startup and slowly goes down to around 30psi when the engine is warm. The manual is saying it should be 45psi at 800rpm. The wire itself could have been easily pulled out of the clamp. The turbos being so close to the combustion chambers allow them to reach maximum speed more quickly. You are saying that when you take it out of Park the light goes out, are you putting it in reverse from park or to neutral??????? I wouldn't have been able to keep the tester on there and drive around. I'm sure they removed the ground wire from the battery to do the work and didn't get it back together tight.
I'm wondering if this could have anything to do with changing over to a different oil and with it being so cold in the mornings? What kind of oil filter do you use, was it also switched to a different brand? My old Maverick the classic kind, not the Escape variant had very little oil pressure at idle when it was at operating temp, but it was fine cold. I know its a stretch, but I have a new nylon gun cleaning brush that would work perfect. I recommend not drving until you determine oil pressure. So since yesterday, I've put a little over 40 miles on it, all city driving. Tighten the oil pressure sender to 10 ft.
I only have the tach in the dash, and the lowest it shows is 1000rpm so I gave it a little gas until it was just under that. I had removed the ground clamp from the post numerous times while replacing the coils and O2 sensors, but I thought I had it back on there tight. Ford is working on an approved induction cleaning system. I am hoping and praying that it is just a simple fix and not anything major. Start by unplugging the connector. I've driven it the last few days and have had the light flicker just once. I turned it off and let it sit for about 45 minutes.
A principal component of this network on your Ford Escape engine is the oil pressure sender and switch. I recently serviced an Explorer with the 3. I went ahead and removed the right tire, and right side lower skirt. I can't find it now, and can't remember where I read it, but I remember seeing that after changing coil packs and putting the top of the motor back together, you were supposed to check the throttle cable and something about making sure rpm's were right? The only thing I did was to remove it and dump the contents through a sieve to see if I had anything in the oil. I also noticed that the actual clamp was also loose and would spin on the battery post pretty easily.
So this morning, I try to start it up and its dead. There also is a adaptor that can be installed at the oil filter location by turning it onto the oil filter threads then install a oil filter to it. Clean around the sensor if you have any dirt or grime before you remove it. On the way home I decided to take the highway thinking that without stop and go traffic it would be above idle most of the time. But i also read somewhere that I should try simply disconnecting the battery for about 10mins, so I did that the same time. Dealer replace oil pressure sending unit oil pressure switch and problem still existed while leaving dealer about 3 miles away.