Once I got the ring issue sorted out, assembly proceeded reasonably normally. The depth of the groove in the piston is less than the width of the ring. The cam was fun to install - after being slathered in assembly lube, it was one seriously slippery little bugger and was somewhat hard to get a handle on to get the final bearing seated. The next thing was to check the main and rod bearings as well as the timing chain. Some of the head bolts show so they need to be painted, plus I had to paint the ends of the heads after I installed the freeze plugs in each end. The 1989 Ford F-150 was part of the eighth generation of Ford trucks 1987 through 1991. The Ford F-150 for the 1989 model-year was 210.
Odds are if you drop the oil pan and remove a few bearings caps on the end fartherest away from the oil pump you will probably find the bearing shells are down into the copper. A wealth of good knowledge there from Lincoln owners all over the world. They would be hard pressed to fall off even if the engine was upside down with all of what they are plugged into and the tight spaces the harness runs in. At this point we ran out of working time for the day and had to call it a night, so I taped up the openings in the intake both the center air flow area and the injector ports and carefully set aside the parts I had dug up from the far reaches of my garage so it would be easy to do the next pieces of assembly. On this motor, I simply inserted all of the old lifters into their bores upside down and painted.
The 1982 version came equipped with an aluminum intake manifold and was carried through with slight variations until 1993. It came standard with a three-speed automatic transmission. For more than a decade, Ford tried to pry the two apart with its otherwise excellent 4. I got most of the parts in a basic rebuild kit from. There are a lot of pieces that bolt in one way or another to an exhaust manifold stud.
Here's a list of what I need. Mounting that in my vice worked awesome for cleaning out the grooves of all the accumulated crud - and there was a lot of it on some of the pistons. After that I can do the final hookups and see about firing things up. Automatic locking hubs on four-wheel drive versions of the F-150, which had been optional since 1981, became standard equipment later in the 1989 model year. Various parts had gotten moved around the garage, so there was a lot of head scratching on my part to find it all again.
The pcm references the cam sensor so it knows when to initiate the timing sequence for the injectors. The oil pan, valve covers, lower intake manifold, and heads all got the same treatment. The other 4 are longer to go through the thicker sections of the bellhousing. At this point I was far enough along to get out my spiffy new Ford oil pump priming tool, dump some oil into the engine, and prime the engine with a hand drill to see if it had any oil leaks. Item Expected Measured Result Cylinder Bores 4. I had previously installed them just tight enough to pre-lube the engine and verify all was well.
Parts Gathering and Machine Shop Work Next up is gathering parts for the basic rebuild of this motor. I did a quick cleaning of the fuel rail assembly, used some engine oil to lubricate the injector O-rings top and bottom , and it pretty much fell together and onto the motor. I even remembered to remove the oil pressure sender and extension, seal the threads properly, and reinstall them - and hook up the wire from the harness. This page documents what I've done to get this engine checked out and installed in the 1987 F150. It never shows anything as low as 10 while the engine is running, except possibly when first started in very cold weather. If this is suggested by anyone, I recommend you go elsewhere. The outside of the motor is getting a quick shot of Ford grey paint, the same as it had originally.
In 1989, automatic locking hubs for the F-150 were added. All of the bearings were worn pretty uniformly, with no unusual damaged areas or problems to note. Other models continued to use the 5. I had installed it into the intake manifold on the driver's side, but apparently it only goes there on the 5. Item Status Full gasket set Have Timing chain set Have Cam and lifters Have Rings Have Rod bearings Have Main bearings Have Freeze plug set Have Ford grey paint Have I took the engine and parts to the machine shop for a final inspection and cleaning. Walt Hey, I had a problem like this and solved it. Once I got going it went reasonably smoothly.
You just do the best you can with it. I did have to do a bit of quick sandblasting on the valve covers and the thermostat housing, but nothing major. So I call up and they're stumped too. The next step was to removed everything else from the block to get it ready to take to a machine shop and to verify it's condition. There are some pieces for the throttle linkage and such I could mess with at this point, but not much else really needs to be done before it's ready to go into the truck.
I had to remove the intake on the Suburban and replace the intake gaskets about 10,000 miles after the rebuild and the lifter valley was still as pristine as the day I assembled the motor. To check the bearings, I needed to turn the engine over, and I didn't want the lifters to fall out onto the ground into a pile. While the engine is being cranked or running, the other wire is supplied with a pulsed negative ground from the pcm powertrain control module - computer to com … plete the circuit and therefore operate pulse the injector. The compression rings simply won't compress far enough into the piston ring grooves to let the piston go into the cylinder. Ignition Control Module because they do fail usaly just because but don't take the wireing or other sub systems for granted. That's when this went from a simple inspection to more work - I knew I had to clean out the engine to remove and junk that was now in it because metal shattering like the lifters did leaves fun little metal shards all over the nearby area and my chances of successfully getting it all cleaned out were pretty slim.