When the check engine light goes off 1-10 minutes after cranking the engine I can hear a click and a hum maybe the fuel pump starting? Actually the minimum static charge on a 'good' battery should be 12. If you have spark, then ignition is not the problem. If you can't find it, call Honda and they will give you the code for free. The messed up part is, the first time I needed a tow the tow driver explained to me it might be the shaft inside the distrubutor shorting out. I just bought one the other night put it in, and now it will not stay running at all and throws an ignition systems code when it dies, code 15. First, double check your current as Trcustoms suggested. You can have codes read at Auto Zone, Pep Boys, O'Reilly's, etc.
I will also let the battery sit unplugged after being fully charged. I checked for voltage at the wire harness and it was present, so I changed the fuel pump. I understand the fuel pump is controlled by the main relay and I've replaced the main relay. Nov 01, 2011 What you're describing could be a broken timing belt. If our prices don't convince you, we also want to make sure that you can hear from car part experts, so we have reviews you can browse through on our sites to get you peace of mind. So I popped the hood and disconnected and reconnected the negative terminal on the battery. Sometimes after they fail they will work occasionally but finally fail altogether.
Good luck Posted on Sep 20, 2008 Sounds like your alternator to me. Although before all this, you should check the voltage of your battery. It's only been two years, but I suppose they're probably right. Report posts and comments that fall outside the guidelines. Doesn't sound like my problem as I am getting a good strong spark. Once you place an order, you or someone you know can pick it up at a Sears store, have it shipped to over 100 countries—whatever is most convenient for you. We look forward to helping everyone with their car repairs and questions, but please take the time to read this sidebar.
Then get a good thorough tuneup. Check for spark at a plug wire. Try to determine if it's fuel or ignition-related. All of our Batterys are guaranteed to fit if you use enter your Honda Accord into your Year Make Model selector. You need to have the codes read.
Start by getting the battery, cable connections, and charging system all checked out. Or maybe I'm just too groggy to notice. Also respect those that take the time to answer questions and remember that many are professional mechanics, who normally get paid very well to diagnose automotive repairs. I have a good strong spark at the spark plugs, there is fuel in the fuel rail, the rotor is turning timing belt intact , I put a noid light on the injectors and they are being pulsed, but it still won't start. Posted on Oct 27, 2008 Probably the igniter in the distributor. If it does crank, but won;t start: You'll just have to start from scratch to find the problem. Doesn't sound like my problem as I am getting a good strong spark.
Although some batteries last much longer, most batteries begin breaking down chemically after four years, so you could experience dimmer headlights and other negative effects before you have a dead battery in your Accord that you need to replace. Read the following guidelines, and if you think it still is relevant, message the mods to free it from the spam filter. A draw test does not show any milliamps. Try Autozone or Advanced Auto Parts. If the light is still on, post back. The check engine light is always on.
If that's not your issue, then someone else will have to shed light on where to look next. Please or to join the conversation. Recently I went on vacation and left the car sitting for a week. I have no idea if any of these things are relevant, but here are some things: -It seems to happen more often when the car hits a bump or a long, hard turn, like a highway on-ramp. Check if your fuel pump works.
Your parasitic draw readings seem to be in spec as suggested. Repeatedly turning the key eventually turned the car on. I'm just lost right now as to why it wont start in hot weather. I'm starting to think It might be electrical wiring issues shorting things out? I would turn the key and nothing would happen, the car was dead. Initially, I thought it was the fuel pump because I couldn't hear it coming on when I turned the key to the run position. I had someone jump me although the battery had some juice left he said it wouldn't hurt. These reviews are from anyone who purchased those parts, in this case a Battery, so you can feel confident that you know what you are buying.
It has a loping startup. Replaced Thermal air valve,egr valve, start booster , valve, and air pump. While it sounds like your fuel pump is not going on and that is the problem, that would only be a guess. I would turn the key and the car would just make a clicking sound and sit there. You may have a fuel pump going south, a bad fuel pump relay, or even the engine computer is not turning on the fuel pump when it is supposed to prior to cranking. All registered trademarks are the property of their respective owners. If not, you could have a bad ignition switch.