Consumer states vehicle had repairs to the o-ring and dealer stated something about air in the system. If your starter tests good, then it is time to look at the ignition switch. This could cause serious injury or maybe even death. I have taken the car to three different shops and none of them of been able to locate the obd location. I recently had the same issue with my 2001 Civic.
Remove the battery connections and make sure they are clean and tight. The check engine light can be triggered by any detected fault that would affect the emissions output of your car. It is hardly a 5 minute job to connect the diagnostic tester and read out the malfunction code s. My contention is that they had prior knowledge of defects in the abs modulator and accumulator and are responsible for the failure of this system. They recommended another valve adjustment - which I had them do. Once again maybe that has nothing to do with it but I'd rather not leave any information out.
Possible reason for failure in a 30k Kms driven car there is no underbody hit whatsoever? Replaced them both and now I have very little brake pressure when I start the car. With ignition off, insert jumper wire in service check connector terminals, located behind right side of dash. If my abs system does not work and I slam on my brakes and they lock up and I hit someone then I am at fault , but I could not help hitting them if my brakes are locked up and I am still going. When these lights turn on it mean that either a repair or maintenance is needed on the vehicle. I did some searching on the internet and found out that I wasn't the only one who had an abs light problem. Error was P0301, P0302, P0303, P0304, P0300 codes - misfires on cylinders and random misfires.
It turned out that there was a sensor in the seat belt buckle that was bad and needed replaced. I have been told that this is done case-by-case. And the dealer will have that other shops might, too, but we know the dealer will. The engine code is D16Z6, it's a 1. When I start my car it makes a funny noise for about 30 seconds and then my abs light comes on and the noise stops. Im pretty sure it is a obd-1, so I have heard that shops cannot hook into my computer and find the source of error. It's the first time this has ever happened since I owned the car.
While on the other hand the reliability of the after market sensor will always remain a gamble. At this point I'm very disappointed with Honda of America, and I have found numerous individuals on the web that have this same problem with their abs modulators leaking. Whenever the computer receives a signal from a sensor that is out-of-range from its programming, this lamp will illuminate; and, so long as… It means is that you are near or at the mileage for a scheduled service. To find out, you need to retrieve the codes recorded by your car's onboard engine management computer. I have owned 3 Hondas and each of them seem to have major problem around 120,000 miles - I am so frustrated and disappointed with Honda and will need to look at other brands in the future. I took it to my mechanic and asked him to check it out.
My car now does not go over 20 miles per hour. After the light goes off release the brake pedal. Thanks Search this Thread Similar Threads Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post lambuhere1 Technical Stuff 50 30th April 2019 13:21 supremeBaleno Technical Stuff 18 17th August 2017 16:49 S5157 Technical Stuff 33 8th June 2014 10:56 virender Technical Stuff 11 17th July 2012 11:17 abhibh Technical Stuff 33 18th September 2011 22:07. Came back a couple of weeks later. They also heard ticking noises so they performed a valve adjustment. Further I also examined the suspension and underbody of the car when it was raised on hydraulic lift including most nooks and cubby holes.
And it has been over a year now. Anti-lock brakes keep your car's wheels from locking up and going into a skid, and the Civic anti-lock brake sensor is a crucial part of the system. I gave it to Solitaire Honda at Borivali, Mumbai. To me this is just another opportunity for Honda to make an extra buck on its loyal customers. Stop, then make it again and again. When the sensor fails, the control module doesn't get the information it needs to apply the correct amount of pressure. Also, a bit of extra information about a month ago or so We replaced the rear brakes and rear rotors and the front brakes.
You can easily reset it yourself: Turn the car off. Couldn't find problem but said the valves need adjustment again - which they did. So they checked the wiring completely, used a contact cleaner and did the needful. On my 88 Civic it was just left of the small compartment that looked like an ashtray. There is a check engine light, brake light, battery light, oil light, and several other that each relate to an engines system. Eventually my battery died and I had it replaced. Each wheel has one and using an ohm meter check for resistance.
I don't have a lot of money to keep replacing parts on a 10 year old car without some assurance that the problem will be fixed. When the advisor saw a frown on my face he told me of any alternative that he could arrange one from me from the unofficial route for close to 2. Any ideas to what could be the problem and what are the solutions and costs I could be staring at? Sensor gone kaput 100% This brings check light. However, time will tell if it fixed it… It turns on when there is a problem with the airbag system, usually you can replace the module under the dash, but you may need to take it to Honda and have them check the airbags themselves. When the pump is ubnable to hold pressure, the brake pedal would sink to the floor when depressed with ehgnine running. If it still wont turn over I would have the battery tested.