It was really cold below 0 when she came home so I'm assuming that was the reason for less oil use. Eventually it comes back on either within a minute or so and once or twice it has stayed off for 40 miles. I do notice some black soot at the exhaust pipe. I bought a 2012 Civic Si new, in the first six months it stranded me several times. You don't normally give the inner workings of your Honda Civic a second thought until something goes wrong, especially when it affects the interior temperature. The feel of the clutch connects them with the car in a way that an automatic transmission cannot replicate.
I see this is an old post but in case someone follows a search engine to this topic I have been through this and I am going through it again. That's the theory but we don't know for sure. Check the freon level with a manifold gauge while the car is idling. Follow both cables to their far ends, remove this connection and wire brush the connection and the cable terminal clean and retighten these connections. They can stick and not set any code, especially if the vehicle sat for a long time. Turn on the air conditioner and lift the hood of the car to check the compressor.
Planning to let her drive it until school is done before doing any tests on it. It tested fine, both the battery and the alternator seem to put out the correct voltage, a solid 12. That explains why I didn't see the oil pressure switch, it is hidden above the oil filter. Well there um i hate to say it but with out looking at it putting your temp in the red u could of fried something in motor…. Might be better now because of the thicker oil.
After the battery has been recharged sufficiently while driving, the meter will alternate between 12. Other than a possible unattached ground, which I hope he would have noticed by now if that was the case, I am thinking it has to be the starter. Jump starting may have wiggled the terminal just enough to allow the current to pass and start the engine, but tomorrow you have the same problem. If the fuel pump does not run briefly at each Off-Run turn of the key, the main relay fuel pump relay under the dash may be failing. It really doesn't smoke noticeably unless you rev it up to a higher rpm then I see some blue smoke but not a lot. There was that hot oil smell when we first had the car with the lighter weight oil in it.
Not sure if it would be worth putting the money into motor repair or replacement. The car seems to be going through oil when it is run at higher rpm's when you get it out on the highway, 60-75 mph. We used the car around town and the oil level stays pretty good might be going down a little. I checked this hose see link below and it was not blocked. Even if you have a new battery, if the connections are loose, dirty or corroded, you will not be allowing the full flow of current to pass thru the connections. One problem though, every so often, the speedometer, odometer, and trip meter all go out basically center unit of the console.
Any ideas on what to try or look for?? During the time when it is not, pull over and check the readings again. My hope is that it will improve over time but not sure if that's a possibility or not. First remove the cables from the battery and use a wire brush to remove any corrosion and dirt from the battery posts and the cable terminals. Any input about where to go from here will be greatly appreciated. After four days with no sign of trouble, it happened again at the gas station. The college is 2 hours away and mostly highway driving.
I will give my daughter a oil checking lesson before she leaves. In other words, the engine doesn't turn over at all. I got a jump and things were fine for a couple of weeks, then it did it to me again, following a brief stop in the grocery store after my highway commute home. Tim Jul 05, 2009 Check the following things: air filter, wheel alignment, and timing belt, all of them if not serviced on time can affect your fuel consumption. These grounds normally run from the rear of the engine to the firewall and are uninsulated and most are a braided wire.
If the level is low, you may have a leak that needs to be fixed as soon as possible. Changing out the thermostat would likely solve your problem. There seems to be some improvement, the first week we had it it went through a quart 5 w 30 with about a 50 mile trip. Here are the details of what I did. They cleaned and greased the terminals, but it still took several jumps to finally get it started. My daughter headed back up to school and she called me after she got there and said the oil was just a little above the second mark on the dipstick so it used just under a quart again.
The car runs great but the oil consumption is more than it should be. I'm assuming that if the piston rings are baked to the pistons that it would be very expensive to fix that and that is why you mention replacing the motor. But visiting the auto mechanic after your air conditioner breaks can be a costly trip if you weren't planning on such an expense. I also took a look underneath and didn't see any major leaks, just a few minor spots around the oil pan. I took the head off, and had an apprentice mechanic put it back on to replace a head gasket.