I also always try and make sure that I have 2 or more axle stands to hand and position them suitably and always drop down the corner steadies as a belt and braces exercise as well. Jack up one side with the jack under the axle plate where it bolts to the chassis,chock the opposite side then release the handbrake. On the ratchet type, though, simply pull it on by one or two clicks, and then check that both drums have met with the same degree of resistance when you try to turn them. The aim being to get the shoes as close to the drum as possible but without touching; test by sound and feel. As the screw is backed off more and more, when applied only the operating tip of the shoe contacts the drum and so efficiency diminishes. Located in the back of the brake backing plate is a small opening covered by a protective plug.
My car has done 90,000 miles without any adjustment of bearing and at lest 30,000 with no work at all on the brakes. The handbrake lever is out of adjustment or has become disconnected from the mechanical over-run brake system If you intend to progress further yourself, I'd suggest getting hold of a caravan servicing manual - like the Haynes Caravan Manual 3rd Edition - from Halfords, Amazon, or Haynes themselves - about. Operate the handbrake several times to ensure that the compensators and brake shoes are seated. I also always try and make sure that I have 2 or more axle stands to hand and position them suitably and always drop down the corner steadies as a belt and braces exercise as well. Pulling the handbrake on fully just about held it saying to me the shoes are in need of some adjustment, not the handbrake, that should come right when the shoes are adjusted, if, everything was correctly adjusted in the first place of course?. For forwards travel, a correctly adjusted handbrake is fully on when at 45 degrees - for backwards travel it's fully on when vertical.
Procedure Continue the process on all drums and then take up the slack at the compensator and coupling. I usually adjust my brakes after the first shakedown trip of the season. I like to back mine off another click or two so there is no rubbing. I have a 96 Jayco Pelican and just have repacked the bearing with grease and now having issues ajusting the brakes. Overrun brakes are easy enough to adjust but they are not the same as car brakes and are adjusted using different parameters. Then slowly turn the brake adjuster bolt anticlockwise until the wheel begins to rotate freely again. Western Towing Ltd will not assume and hereby disclaim any liability to any party for any loss or damage caused by errors or omissions, whether such errors or omissions result from negligence, accident or other cause.
Once the wheels are back on, release the handbrake to double-check that the wheels spin freely, and then apply the handbrake again to be certain that they lock. . At this point get your glamorous assistant you will be on your back under the caravan to put the handbrake on hard and release it. Thanks to Wayne at for his help with this feature for Practical Caravan. At a guess a typical van will do perhaps 2,000 miles per year so at that rate is going to go for 15 years before it needs even a hint of maintenance to the hubs aside from a bit of lube to the cables. The wire cable will stretch and slacken and so needs regular adjustment to be effective as possible and needs to be checked for fraying — which if identified means the cable should be replaced as soon as possible.
You mean this section, in the cascadia area Baz. This is to get rid of any rust on the inside of the drum which may affect the clearance between shoe and drum. . Shoe linings come adrift, springs break,hitch dampers fail. Then raise each of the caravan's corner steadies so they are clear of the ground. The simplest precaution you can take is to take a wheel chock or two on your travels and plonk them on the low side of the wheels and before you release the van from the vehicle think about keeping to relatively level terrain.
A brake clean and adjustment should be carried out between the first 300 to 1000 kilometres and then at the service intervals recommended on Page 8. Ratchet-type handbrakes are better in this regard. This caught Linda and I out on Sunday, didn't even think the van had moved backward but the brakes had collapsed into the reversing position, the handbrake would not holding it on a slight hill. Lower the tourer to the ground, and tighten the wheel nuts to their correct torque setting. This lever and cable design activates when the operator applies pressure to the brake shoes by pulling the handbrake lever at the coupling assembly, which pivots and levers forward an adjustable pulley that tensions a cable threaded through the pulley the earlier, simpler method used was a hook in place of the pulley wheel mechanism.
Hi, I have a mid 80's? The compensators should remain at 90° to the brake rod when the brakes are applied. At this point, whilst still rotating the wheel in the forwards direction, move the adjuster in the opposite direction to the arrow until no resistance is felt at the wheel. Especially when playing around with brakes as quite a few of my regulars have recently found out to their cost. Correctly adjusted caravan brakes are central to the wellbeing of you and your family during your caravan holidays. The same problem occurs with cable-operated park brakes; while cheap and simple, they are not brakes you can rely on when parking or when manoeuvring your van on the jockey wheel.
I subjected my poor caravan to the ultimate brake test a year or two ago by losing it off the hitch at about 30mph; it pulled up nice and straight. Are there any mechanics et al out there who can advise please. Then slowly turn the brake adjuster back a few clicks until the wheel begins to rotate freely again. I can never remember which way, but if you stick your eyeball in there you may be able to see the thread on the adjuster. Firstly you do not need to get under to check brakes.
When carrying out the adjustment, move the adjuster in the direction of the arrow until resistance is felt when turning the road wheel in a forwards direction. I found that I could spin the wheels with only a tad of brake shoe drag that I was happy with and when hand brake aplied the wheels didnt move etc, but as soon as I release the brake the wheels are harder to move, then free up a bit but still to much brake drag for my liking. A mechanical park brake, activated via a lever and pin on the A-frame coupling, typically augments the electrically activated system for drum brakes. Whenever I work under the caravan, my preference is to support it on axle stands, which provide a far more stable base and are much less likely to fail than a jack. Spin and listen When the caravan is supported high enough to lift the tyres clear of the ground, lower all of the corner steadies to give extra support and stability.